The bag debuted with the Triomphe canvas itself that is based on a design from Celine’s archives from 1972, which creative director Hedi Slimane rediscovered in 2019. That design drew its inspiration from the links of the chains surrounding the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, and Slimane reimagined it for the vintage-effect canvas that appears today on numerous bags, as well as for the metallic hardware used in the Triomphe collection.
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Although itty-bitty, the Triomphe Minaudiere would be hard to miss. The bag features a lambskin lining and one main compartment, with a metallic frame that amplifies its square shape.
The silhouette and metallic twinkle leans to a classic interpretation of the small purse, popularised during the 1920s by the famous flapper girls, but with a history that goes as far back as the 1800s.
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For Celine’s autumn/winter 2021 show, filmed near Paris at the Chateau de Vaux-le-Vicomte’s Jardins d’André Le Nôtre, Slimane styled a lizard skin Triomphe Minaudiere with a delicate, strapless black dress, complete with a light neck scarf in the same material that billowed in the wind. The monochromatic look is punctuated by gold jewellery and white socks peeping out from above the Margaret Chelsea boots in calfskin, exemplifying Slimane’s modern take on the formal fête – or Parade – as he dubbed his show.
The Minaudiere is also presented at the Parade in smooth black calfskin, with Slimane offering a very different take on how to style it. An oversized chequered flannel coat plays with proportion and exaggeration, juxtaposed against the miniaturised Triomphe. Of note is the excessive layering in this look, with the floral embroidery on the dress, a statement boat neck collar, and white-on-white pairing with the Celine CT-03 high-top trainers. The Triomphe Minaudiere, perhaps intentionally, stands out as the simple, timeless element in autumn, where layers expectedly come out in full force.
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The classic, timeless wardrobe is definitely an inspiration for women’s autumn at Celine. We also see the essential shape of the Chasseur jacket with a new double-breasted closure and tailored collar, autumnal dresses with a more utilitarian attitude, and an easy, casual assortment in jersey with a sprinkling of light blush and red accents.
This season, we are also treated to the Plage capsule collection, with swimwear that encapsulates the classic French girl vibe Slimane seems perpetually to be inspired by. A sand- and navy-striped bikini, as well as a one-piece in black and aubergine, offer the ultimate example of “fashionable yet nonchalant”.
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And, for something that definitely takes its cue from the 90s and 00s, there is the Teckel. This round-shaped bag appears in the new shiny palmelato leather, in either black or white, as well as the Triomphe canvas. The structure of the Celine Teckel feels sturdier and more modern. Notably, the Teckel is seen in the Parade show with the model holding the top handle, rather than worn over the shoulder or over the forearm, as noughties fashionistas may have preferred.
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